Twenty Seven

As a child, Jamie Burnard walked past a former warehouse near the quay in Kingsbridge and told himself he would own it one day. In 2018, aged 27, he did, and the name stuck. The room he made of it is loft-like and calm, all simple lines and local artwork, which is a useful counterweight to a chef described, fairly, as a whirlwind of creativity. Michelin recognition followed.

The ethos is plainly put: fresh local produce, skilfully prepared, served somewhere relaxed and vibrant. There is a tasting menu, and if you are booking a taxi afterwards, allow three hours from your reservation time. Lunch runs Thursday to Saturday, 12 to 2pm, and that is the service to bring younger children to, as under eights are not taken in the evening. Park on the Quay or at Lower Union Road and walk in.