Oceans Restaurant

The headland site at Bolberry Down has gone through a few names - The Port Light, then Oceans - and is now Thirty-three by the sea, taken on by Jamie Burnard of Kingsbridge's Twenty-seven. The numbering is deliberate: he got the keys to the first at 27 and to this one at 33. Light bounces off the English Channel into a bright, airy room, and Alex, front of house here for years, has stayed on.

There are 42 covers inside and 28 out, so al fresco is a real option rather than a token gesture. The cooking is local, seasonal and traceable, run by a young kitchen team under Jamie: whitebait, lobster arancini, fruits de mer, fish and chips with the proper accompaniments, a crab sandwich, a steak if you would rather. Dressing down is expected, so come straight off the beach or the coast path.