Country Cheeses of Tavistock, Topsham and Totnes

Born in 1989 on a Tavistock Pannier Market stall with half a dozen local cheeses, Gary and Elise's operation moved into the market perimeter shop in 1994 and has been there ever since, with further shops in Totnes and Topsham. A decade ago they hand built their own underground cave on the edge of North Dartmoor, where the local terroir works on the cheese as it matures. Product over profit is the stated aim, and it shows.

They make, mature and sell, looking after up to 150 varieties at any one time, all selected, collected and ripened by them and shifting with the seasons. Their own recipes started 30 years ago with Trehill, a garlicky hard cheese, and now run to softs, blues, goats and alpine styles, plus Sweet Charlotte, Blue Bay, Little Stinky and Devon Sage. There is no full online shop by design, so go in and ask.