The Black River Inn

Chef Alex Pallatt rebuilt the kitchen at this Beaworthy village pub around a solid fuel hearth, and everything since has followed from that decision. What comes out is Devon Tapas, small plates cooked over wood fire, which puts the menu a long way from standard pub territory. The building mixes old and new features, the beer garden looks out over miles of Devon countryside, and the whole place is family and dog friendly without making a fuss about it.

Plates arrive as they are ready rather than all at once, so order a few and share. Sunday lunch is a roast platter of three fire-roasted meats with at least seven local seasonal vegetables, roasties and gravy, with fire-roasted and baked vegetarian and vegan options rather than a nut roast. The bar runs to local beers and real ales, Westcountry spirits, cocktails, Devon soft drinks and a long wine list. There is no online booking, so call, and call rather than email if you want a table within 48 hours.