Hamiltons Fish

Bovey Tracey sits a fair way inland, which makes it an unlikely address for a fishmongers working straight off the Brixham boats. This family-run outfit has been doing exactly that since 2003, taking day-boat landings from the south Devon coast and preparing them to order rather than pulling them from a freezer. It is a small operation with a national reach, and the awards suggest the approach holds up.

The counter runs from the familiar to the properly good: bass, black bream, brill, Dover sole, turbot, hake, haddock, plaice, pollack and huss, alongside handpicked white crabmeat and wild scallops in the half shell. There is smoked salmon and smoked fish, tinned seafood, fish pie mix and sauces to go with it - hollandaise, tartare, parsley, dill and mustard. Check the fresh list each week before ordering, since it changes with what the boats bring in.