The Proper Marmalade Company

Marmalade made properly takes time, and on the edge of Exmoor in North Devon someone has decided that time is worth spending. Fresh fruit is simmered in open pans until the peel softens, then boiled to a set with sugar, in batches of around 22 jars. The results have collected World Champion, Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze awards at the Dalemain World Marmalade Festival, plus Golds from Great Taste and Taste of the West, and Paddington Bear's paw of approval.

There are two ranges. "Proper" covers the traditional flavours, built for hot buttered toast and not much argument. "Improper" goes further afield, including blood orange and espresso, and a lemon and horseradish that customers use in glazes, sauces and salad dressings as much as on sourdough. These are marmalades that work alongside meats and cheeses, and in puddings and cakes. The shop is in Ilfracombe, and it is the place to taste your way across both ranges before committing.