Rogamo

Rogamo opened on Sidwell Street in Exeter in November 2021, founded by Ruben, a former investigative journalist from The Beijing News who moved to Exeter to support his daughter's education and started the restaurant to bring the food of his home region to the city. The name comes from the rougamo itself, a hand-shaped flatbread burger with roots on the Silk Road going back to the Tang dynasty, made with slow-baked, hand-leavened dough rather than shortcut puff pastry.

Alongside the rougamo, the kitchen hand-pulls its own biangbiang noodles - wide ribbon noodles served with slow-stewed tomatoes and scrambled egg - and makes liangpi, a cold rice-starch noodle dish that is naturally gluten-free and vegan. There are also soy-braised pork dishes and steamed bao made using traditional Northern Chinese methods, and Rogamo occasionally runs hands-on workshops teaching dumpling and baozi-making. It is open Monday to Saturday, midday to 8pm, and closed Sundays.