Goto

Goto is a small Japanese restaurant on New Bridge Street, having moved to Exeter from Plymouth in 2020 and quickly built the kind of following that makes booking ahead close to essential. Sushi and sashimi are the backbone of the menu, cut fresh rather than pre-portioned, with ramen and rice bowls covering the cooked side for anyone after something warmer than raw fish.

The vegan menu is unusually thorough for a restaurant this size - veggie tempura sushi, enoki mushroom and aubergine nigiri, vegetable tempura, avocado and cucumber maki, vegan ramen and pumpkin croquettes all get proper billing rather than being squeezed onto the regular menu as an afterthought. It keeps modest hours, lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday and closed on Sundays, in keeping with a kitchen more focused on getting a small menu right than covering every base. The restaurant is compact, so a table on a Friday or Saturday night is genuinely worth booking rather than chancing.