The Jack in the Green

Paul and Judy Parnell bought the freehold of this tired roadside inn at Rockbeare in 1992, with limited funds and the A30 bypass looming. Thirty-odd years later it has a national reputation and a new pair of hands: Craig and Miranda, now into their third year at the helm with 25 years of service here between them. Comfortable and informal, with a cosy bar open to everyone, it remains a Devon dining institution rather than a museum piece.

The cooking is seasonal British pub food done properly: the freshest fish, locally reared meat and seasonal veg cooked to order, with pub classics given a kick. Suppliers are named and local - handpicked Aylesbeare blueberries, Farmer Ed's Broadclyst lamb, Ruby Red beef from Darts Farm. Menus run from brunch to burger night, and the pub hosts weddings, conferences and large parties. Come for everyday dining, or book the room if you need the place glammed up.