The Puffing Billy Inn

Exton sits on the east side of the Exe estuary, quiet enough that most people pass it by on the way to somewhere louder. The Puffing Billy Inn is the reason to stop. It calls itself a gastropub, which here means a seasonal menu built on locally sourced Devon produce, from freshly caught seafood to vegetables that turn up when they should. The welcome is broad rather than precious.

Food runs all day, Monday to Saturday from noon to 20:30 and Sunday from noon to 17:45, so you are not tied to conventional meal times. Children are welcome day and night, with their own menu and an activity sheet. Dogs get more than a token nod: over 20 dog-friendly tables inside. There is ramped access, disabled toilets and flat floors throughout, plus a large private car park to the rear and street parking besides. Worth the detour off the main road.