The Octagon at Exmouth

Generations of Exmouth children have queued at this eight-sided building on the seafront for an ice cream, and have done since 1964. New owner David Freer, who traded a big business career for a return to his seafront roots, has given the place a major makeover: the takeaway element survives, but there is now a restaurant behind it. The location does a lot of the work, with unspoilt views across the river towards Dawlish, Torbay and beyond.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served, built on fresh local produce, with a team the owners describe as caring and attentive. Every seat comes with a view, which is the whole point. Groups of five or six need a deposit, five pounds a head for breakfast and ten for lunch or dinner; for exclusive dining for six or more. Shirts and shoes stay on, and no dogs.