Saveur

Tower Street in Exmouth is where you'll find Nigel Wright cooking to a standard he learned under Michael Walmsley, formerly of Lucknam Park, Le Manoir and Claridges. That pedigree shows in the record: two AA Rosettes for eight consecutive years, which is harder to sustain than it is to win. The cooking is precise and classically grounded, but the sourcing keeps it firmly rooted in Devon rather than borrowed from anywhere grander.

Local names run through the menu: Brixham monkfish scampi with sweetcorn puree and curry oil, Clinton estate venison carpaccio with old Winchester and 50 year old balsamic, chargrilled Powderham fillet with parmesan Pont Neuf and green peppercorn sauce. Confit pork belly comes with mustard mash and cider jus, and there's a properly considered roasted celeriac for non meat eaters. Ask what the catch of the day is before you decide anything else; it's priced to market and worth the deference.