Duke's Deli

Two chefs from the much-missed Eat the Bird opened Duke's on Paris Street, and Exeter noticed fast. This is a New York Italian-American deli done properly: bread baked daily, subs stacked to the point of structural risk, sandwiches made fresh to order.

The ingredients are more local than the style suggests - Shipton Mill flour, Dartmoor beef, Holsworthy pork. Go hungry, order the meatball sub, and accept that a napkin will not be enough.